A Comprehensive Guide to Buttons for DIY & Craft Projects: Resin, Natural, & Metal Fasteners for European Crafters

Buttons differ fundamentally in their design, method of attachment, and appropriate usage. There are 5 main designs: 2-hole and 4-hole flat buttons, shank buttons, stud buttons, and toggles.

1. Flat Buttons (Sew-Through)

Flat buttons are the most mass-produced style and are the easiest to sew, often by machine. They are discs (or other shapes like square, heart, or flower) with holes punched directly through the center.

• 2-Hole Flat Buttons: These buttons are sewn directly onto the fabric by passing thread back and forth through the two small holes.
• Uses: Ideal for light to medium weight fabrics. Common on shirts, blouses, dresses, pillowcases, and children's clothes.
• 4-Hole Flat Buttons: These buttons feature four holes, usually in a square formation. The additional holes allow for a more secure attachment.
• Uses: Suitable for light to heavy weight fabrics, especially areas that will be under more strain. Often seen on outerwear or trousers.

2. Shank Buttons

Shank buttons are distinct because they have no visible holes on their surface. Instead, they are attached via a small piece (the shank) protruding from the back.

• Design & Function: The shank can be round, rectangular, or tunnel-shaped, featuring a hole for sewing. This design naturally creates space between the button and the fabric, simplifying the process of attaching it to thicker materials.
• Aesthetic: Since the button surface is uninterrupted by holes, they often feature more elaborate, decorative, or domed designs.
• Uses: Versatile for light to heavy weight fabrics. Popular on blazers, suit jackets, overcoats, waistcoats, knitwear (like cardigans), upholstery, and formal/bridal wear.

3. Stud Buttons (Jeans Buttons)

Stud buttons are applied without needle and thread. They are unique, non-sew fasteners applied by piercing the fabric and pressing two metal pieces together (front and backing). They are applied to the fabric by piercing the fabric using the screw on the backing from back to front, and pressing the top piece of the button onto the backing.

• Uses: They are extremely strong and durable. Stud buttons are almost exclusively used on jeans, denim jackets, overalls, and workwear. They are most commonly made of metal due to the need for strength.

4. Toggles

Toggles are defined by their long, narrow, cylindrical shape. They fasten using a loop, which can also be a leather cord that traps the ends in a small patch sewn to the fabric.

• Function: They are highly recognizable statement pieces. The traditional material used for toggles is horn, but you can also find them in wood, plastic, or metal.
• Uses: They are ideal for medium to heavy weight fabrics and are primarily used on coats, jackets (especially duffel jackets), and bags.

Part 2: A World of Materials for Crafters

Buttons can be crafted from natural or synthetic materials, impacting their texture, durability, and washability. The material composition of buttons has changed over the course of history, reflecting the progression of materials science and technology.

Synthetic & Affordable Options (Including Resin)

Plastic / Polyester / Resin Buttons

• Description: These are the most widely used and inexpensive buttons in ready-to-wear clothing. They are made from synthetic materials like acrylic, polyester, epoxy, PET, or resin. Resin buttons (polyester) are produced more than any other kind of plastic button.
• Versatility: They are available in nearly any shape, size, and color. They are very good at resisting heat, rust, and wear.
• Imitation: Polyester buttons can imitate expensive natural materials like horn or pearl with impressive quality.
• Uses: Versatile for all weights of fabric. Used extensively in ready-to-wear clothing, shirts, dresses, trousers, and children's clothes. For children’s clothes, buttons with four holes are recommended for better performance.

Galalith Buttons

• Description: This natural material is invented by being extracted from casein.
• Aesthetics: It provides amazing application capabilities for colors and structural effects. It is used for producing high-quality buttons through polishing processes that provide unique products.

Natural & Sustainable Choices

Mother of Pearl / Shell Buttons (Nacre)

• Description: Made from nacre, the inner layer of mollusk shells (oysters, abalone, snails). They feature an iridescent, lustrous finish. They are quite strong despite being on the thinner side.
• Uses: A classic detail favored by high-quality shirt makers. Used for light to medium weight fabrics such as shirts, blouses, dresses, and waistcoats. Shell buttons can be fragile.

Corozo Buttons (Vegetable Ivory)

• Description: Made from tagua nuts (the seed of a tropical palm). Corozo is 100% natural and is known as vegetable ivory due to its color and texture resemblance to elephant ivory.
• Features: It is very strong and features a unique natural grain pattern that is enhanced when dyed.
• Uses: Suitable for all weights of fabric (shirts, dresses, trousers, suits, coats).

Horn / Bone / Antler Buttons

• Horn: Made from animal horns, making them strong and durable. They feature natural tones and grain patterns. They tend to be on the thicker side and are often used on suits and coats.
• Bone: Made by carving animal bones. They are strong and durable, available in shades of whites and creams. They come in flat, shank, and toggle designs.
• Uses: Used primarily for medium to heavy weight fabrics. Commonly found on suits, coats, waistcoats, and elegant jackets.

Wood Buttons

• Description: Made out of different types of wood, providing varying hues of brown and levels of strength. They are generally strong and can be used on all weights of fabric.
• Uses: Popular for adding a natural, boho, or unique look to a garment. They come in different sizes and shapes, from tiny 2-hole flat buttons for shirts to large toggles for coats.

Coconut Buttons

• Description: Made from coconut shells. They are usually available in smaller sizes and light to darker brown shades. They offer a natural texture.
• Uses: Ideal for use with natural fiber textiles like linens and cottons. Generally suited for light to medium weight fabrics.

Ceramic / Porcelain Buttons

• Description: Made out of clay, fired in high temperatures, and then glazed. They can have elaborate designs and unique colors and textures.
• Uses: Used on all weights of fabrics, including jackets, coats, waistcoats, and light, fancy dresses.

Metal and Decorative Options

Metal Buttons

• Description: Extremely strong and highly durable. They can be made from various metals and metal blends, including aluminum, brass, copper, iron, stainless steel, and zinc alloy.
• Uses: Essential for medium to heavy weight fabrics and hard-wearing clothes. Used in all designs (flat, shank, stud, and toggles). Essential for denim, jeans, workwear, and jackets. Brass provides an elegant look and is often used on blazers and formal garments.

Leather Buttons

• Description: Made from faux or genuine leather. They are hard-wearing and heavy-duty, offering a formal look.
• Uses: Primarily for medium to heavy weight fabrics, such as suit jackets, blazers, and coats. Most leather buttons are shank buttons.

Glass, Rhinestone, & Crystal Buttons

• Glass: Made from clear or colored glass. They can be on the more delicate side, making them better for delicate garments. They are stylish and elegant.
• Rhinestone / Crystal: Usually feature crystals embedded into a metal or plastic shanked base.
• Uses: Due to their sparkly and elegant look, they are used for evening wear, dressier garments, tops, blouses, skirts, dresses, and decorative purposes.

Part 3: Specialty Closures and Decorative Touches

For dedicated crafters, sometimes the functional fastener is also the decorative centerpiece.

• Fabric Covered Buttons (Coated Buttons): These are shank buttons where the domed surface is covered with cloth. They are the most popular choice for bridal or formal wear and formal suits, as the button matches the garment fabric. They can be purchased premade or made with blank kits using the fabric of your choice.
• Novelty Buttons: Highly decorative shank buttons, usually made of elaborate molded plastic, featuring fun shapes like animals or everyday objects. They are mostly used on children’s clothes and accessories or for decorative purposes.
• Chinese Knotted Buttons (Frog Buttons): An ornamental braiding closure made of cord that consists of a button (a specific knot, often a Chinese button knot for a traditional oriental look) and a loop. Used on traditional Chinese garments or as decorative elements on jackets and coats.
• Snap Fasteners (Poppers/Press Buttons): These closures consist of two parts (socket and stud) that "snap" into place. They are very sturdy and can be made of metal (nickel-free brass) or plastic, sometimes with colored resin inserts. Snaps are often favored for children’s clothing as they are easy to use. The force required to snap and unsnap them should be minimal for comfortable use.
• Enamel Buttons: These have a metal base coated with enamel, making them very strong. They commonly feature intricate designs and are typically found in shank designs for suits and coats on medium to heavy weight fabrics.
• Buttons for Garment Dyeing: These are 100% eco-friendly buttons that are white and porous, designed to absorb color during the garment dyeing process (for linen and cotton garments).

Part 4: Matching the Button to Your Project & Essential Criteria

The right button will enhance your finished project, while the wrong one can cause stress on the seams or look out of place. Button material, style, and placement are key factors in determining the best option for fastening a garment.

A Note on Button Sizes for European Crafters

Buttons do have specific sizes. Depending on its function, the size of the button will vary. You may even find "plus size buttons" available.

Generally, the size of a button differs based on its intended use:

• Shirt buttons are typically smaller and placed closer together.
• Jacket buttons are typically larger and set wider apart.

Measurements: Lignes and Millimeters (mm)

The traditional unit of measurement for buttons is the ligne. When working with the metric system used by European crafters, lignes are translated directly into millimeters (mm):

• A standard men’s shirt button is typically 16 lignes, which is equivalent to 10.2 mm.
• A typical button used on a suit jacket is often 32 lignes, corresponding to 20.4 mm.

(For general reference, 40 lignes equals 1 inch).

Essential Selection Criteria for Crafters

When selecting buttons for your sewing or craft project, always consider the practical needs:

• Quality and Firmness: It’s important to test the button’s quality and firmness. It must be able to withstand several washes and maintain its vibrant colors.
• Washability: Ensure the button will maintain color and appearance after several washes. Wooden or cloth buttons may fade after a few washes. If the button is metal, it should not rust. Plastic and polyester buttons are generally very good at resisting wear and maintaining color.
• Comfort: The button must be comfortable to use and simple to handle.
• Compatibility: Pick a button that works well with the fabric weight and garment flap. Shank buttons are ideal for closing the waistband of shorts or pants. For heavy fabrics, flat buttons require a thread shank to make the button stick up higher above the fabric.
• Aesthetics: The use of color is significant; decide whether you want to blend or contrast the colors.

Explore Uniqueness: Buttons can be examples of folk art or studio craft. Don’t forget to check antique stores, flea markets, or your local craft store for unusual, unique, and pretty buttons to give your project a custom look.